I hope some of you are still around - or maybe someone who knows what's going on is. I got my HP Pavilion a1450n and an HP Vs17e monitor in May of 2006.
About a year and a half ago - 2 years ago I noticed that on the top left hand side of the monitor an image had been burnt into my screen. It's not THAT noticeable most of the time so I have continued to use the monitor having no other problems with the computer. In the past few days I have been using the computer and all of a sudden the screen will get a white pixel film (best way I can describe it) over it, and it will start to fade out. As it fades it gets thick yellow lines running down it. I can still see things though they are very faint, and everything is still running (ie music is still playing in itunes just fine). I can't move the mouse (it could be moving, but the monitor doesn't show it moving). If I turn the monitor off, leave it for 15 minutes and come back, it turns on as if nothing had happened.
Eventually (no indicater of why) it does the same thing all over again, usually about 10-15 minutes later. Now it is summer here, but I lived here all last summer and never had this problem. The temp only gets to about 26 c.
My first thought was the monitor was just tanking and was goin to get a new monitor.but then I read some stuff that it could be the video/graphics card. If it were the video card would turning the monitor on and off help it, or does this sound strictly like a monitor issue? I haven't had the problem today, but it's only 10:11 in the morning. I have plugged the monitor in to my laptop for a short period with no problems, so now I've plugged it back into my tower to see if it happens again. I also used a duster to spray out my computer and the monitor.maybe that will help. Has anyone had this problem? Or can anyone tell me if they think it IS the monitor?
My girlfriend has a vs17e, the problem with hers is that it will not display anything. The standby light flashes blue, but the monitor does nothing. The monitor started to go faulty by firstly taken about 5 minutes to turn on then it would take longer ie 30-40 mins and now it won't turn on at all.
I've tried shining a light at the screen to see if I can see the desktop but to no avail. Could have been doing it wrong though.
Any help much appreciated. I contacted HP customer support but the CSR wasn't any great help despite his efforts, told me to take it to repair. Which will probably cost more than a monitor, I was then told it was escilated higher but haven't heard anything since.
I recently repaired a HP vs17e (actually cant remember if its an 'e' or not), anyway, its a HP 17' flatscreen. For those with short attention spans, the problem was a capacitor. Picked it up off the kerbside rubbish collection.
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Plugged it in (power, VGA), and nothing, black screen. As I am a 'Mr Fixit' type, it had to come apart to see if I could locate the problem. Unclip the front panel, then undo the screws securing the screen hardware to the back cover. Word of caution: at this point I actually did some damage that I needed all my soldering skill to repair.
The side printed circuit that carries the power and adjustment buttons has a multi-core cable plug, and I inadvertantly ripped it off the board. I needed my extra-pointy soldering iron and one of those two-armed, magnifying glass head, little electronics 'man' parts holder thingys in order to re-solder about 12 tiny tiny wires back onto the board. Used a small dob of glue to hold the plug in place before soldering. All the electronics are hidden under a steel cover on the back of the LCD unit. Remove the cover and there is two circuit boards screwed to the cover, with the parts facing inwards. The boards need to be unscrewed in order to view the parts.
Turns out the problem was on the smaller of the two boards, so I need'nt have unscrewed the large one, but hey. The smaller board has the VGA connector, the larger board has the power connector. You'll need to remove both to be sure you have found all faulty parts. Word of WARNING this time: if you remove the power board, and see a transformer and a bridge rectifier (identifiable by its BR designation on the board), dont assume that its transforming the mains voltage DOWN to save levels. Its actually transforming it UP to even more unsafe levels (I measured about 350v DC, from a mains supply of 240v AC).
No problem if its not plugged in, but my first diagnosis was to check for blown fuses, and there is one near the power input, but it wasnt blown. You can check it with the power off anyway, using a continuity tester. Anyways, what I found was one small unassuming electrolytic capacitor with a small amount of brown goo on the top, and a slightly bulgy top.
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(they have creases stamped into the top as lines of weakness for when they blow out. Said capacitor was a 470 microFarad, 16v job, and I picked one up from Jaycar the next morning for 75c. I have a solder sucker to remove the old solder from the back of the board. It can be done without one but its a lot more fiddly. Replaced the capacitor (be sure to put it in the right way around - it DOES matter. A capacitor's negative leg is marked with a white stripe and some symbols that are vaguely like a 'negative' symbol, on the closest part of the capacitor body. The board has the positive leg position marked with a plus sign).
Tested it and what do you know? Gives me a good feeling when that happens. General advice on fixing stuff with lots of screws: screw them back into the holes they came out of after removing the bit they held on.
That way you dont lose them and dont forget where they went. The only tiny downside is that moment of frustration when the part wont go back together because you forgot to remove ALL the associated screws first! So if you are a bit handy, you can repair your dead flat screen for peanuts! WellMMMMMMMMMMnnnnnnweek later land sight mmmmmMMMMMMMMMmmmmgggggggg(from another a.n other)Generally, if the screen went out quickly, it was the inverter. If it went out over a slow period of time (flickering etc.) I would bet it is the lamp.replaceing the lamp should be pretty challenging.
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As that requires complete breakdown of your LCD, extraction of your dead lamp, and soldering in your new lamp. But I would like to say that I it did this after realizing it's 2 x kitchen strips inside with wires that can connect back to the inverter with out any desoldering(ie kit assembly/dis) with the outter case remove (glass plate safe away) I could reconnect and see that 3/4 were working (i!i hardcard ) cause the inverter to switch off after a secound! Order ccfl and replace and going to cheap and see if I can get away with fitting a 15' in my 19' as it a 1/3 of the price! The market as drop out there, hope the inverter does not miss the length, or the screen out put. OR MONITOR, I when a head because I could get the inverter to keep the 4 going out of their shell, but in the strip, using a spare, but then it broke at a wire joint and then broke a tube.
But at least I found out a bit more about inverters and ccfl's!